Wallpapering step by step
Preparing the surface
The underlying surface determines the result. Depending on the surface you're wallpapering, this step differs slightly. However, always make sure the surface is even (surface and colour) and dry before wallpapering. Before starting to wallpaper, there are a few things to keep in mind, to make wallpapering as easy and fun as possible:
- Check that the batch number (serial number) is the same on all rolls before opening them.
- Make sure you have the right tools. See the list above for tips on what tools you might need.
- Disconnect the power in the room you are going to wallpaper, then remove socket and switch surrounds.
- Remove floor skirting and mouldings. Use something to gently pry out the mouldings.
- Remove picture hooks and anything else stuck to the walls. (Fill in any holes).
How do I calculate the number of rolls I need?
Most of Duro's wallpaper rolls are 53 cm wide and 10 m long. For a ceiling height of 2.40 m, you'll get about 4 lengths per roll and about 3 lengths if the wallpaper needs to be pattern-matched (one length is from floor to ceiling and the width of the roll). The amount of wallpaper used depends on the width and height of the wall, and whether the room has doors or windows. It is always a good idea to order an extra roll to be on the safe side, as this is an estimated calculation of wallpaper consumption (please note that we do not take into account windows, doors etc.).
Example calculation: if the room is 3×4 m, the perimeter is 14 m (3+3+4+4) and about 7 rolls are needed. In case of pattern-matching, more rolls of wallpaper are needed.
Are all wallpaper adhesives equally good and work with all your wallpapers?
Both yes and no. The most important thing is that you use a wallpaper adhesive that is designed for your wallpaper. The recommended adhesive type is always printed on the packaging of the roll. If in doubt, the staff in your local store will be happy to help you find the right one.
Duro produces wallpaper from two different materials.
- Our modern wallpapers are printed on QuickUp material, which is quick and easy to hang as you apply directly to the wall.
- Our traditional wallpapers are made of paper that are hung in the traditional way (adhesive on the wallpaper, allow to swell for 5 minutes).
But choose your wallpaper by colour and shape. To your taste Take a look at our wallpapers, try out our ‘Wallpaper a room feature’ and get inspired by our environmental photos under inspiration.
Wallpapering with QuickUp
- When hanging a QuickUp wallpaper (Non-Woven), apply adhesive directly to the wall with a roller. Distribute the adhesive evenly over a width of 2-3 lengths (approx. 1-1.5 m). Use a brush for those hard to reach places.
- Start from a door, a window or a corner. When you get to switches and wall sockets, switch off the power and remove the electrical sockets. Make clean cuts while the wallpaper is damp before replacing the switches and sockets.
- Place the roll in the QuickUp tray and pull up the first length. Hang lightly in place at so that some comes above the cornice, or similar, where you intend to make a clean cut. Check that the lengths are vertical by using a pair of scissors suspended from a string,for example. If the wallpaper is crooked, lift it slightly. Do not twist. If there is no adhesive in a particular place or if the underlying wallpaper has come loose, bubbles may form. In this case, carefully smooth the wallpaper and brush on more adhesive.
- Smooth out the wallpaper with the wallpaper tool from the centre outwards to remove the air bubbles. Be careful at the edges to avoid getting adhesive on the tool or the wallpaper. adhesive that gets on the front can be quickly washed off with a sponge and clean water.
- Allow the wallpaper to hang a few millimetres over mouldings (floor and ceiling) and then cut back cleanly. Replace the knife blade regularly, a blunt blade will tear the wallpaper.
- Hang the next length edge-to-edge (not overlapping). Make sure the pattern matches correctly for optimum results.
- At corners cut the length lengthwise. Apply one length around corners. Allow the first length section to go 2 cm around the corner.
Hang the next length overlapping the corner, and apply adhesive to the part of the wallpaper that goes under the overlap. Wipe off excess adhesive with a sponge.
Hang the next length about 2-3 cm in on the next wall to avoid tearing it if you rub against it. Wipe off excess adhesive with a sponge.
Allow to dry properly. Wallpaper dries best at normal room temperature. NB! Non-woven materials allow moisture through. Moisture spots that occur when wallpapering will disappear once the wallpaper has dried (normally within 24 hours).
Wallpapering with paper wallpaper
- 1. Cut the paper wallpaper into lengths, taking into account the pattern match and a few centimetres of excess at the top and bottom, up to 10 lengths at a time. A tip is to mark the cut lengths with an upward arrow on the back to indicate the correct direction. Then roll generous amounts of adhesive onto the back of the wallpaper, making sure there is adhesive all the way to the edges. It is important that no adhesive gets on the wallpapering table, thus risking getting on the front of the next length! Then fold the length towards the centre so that the short ends meet with the adhesive sides facing inwards. Allow the wallpaper to swell for just over 5 minutes.
- Start wallpapering at a window to avoid shadows at the joints. It is important to ensure that the wallpaper adheres to the surface right up to the edges. Wallpaper about half the room until you reach a door or corner. Then start again on the other side of the window and wallpaper the rest. Always hang the lengths in sequence, even over windows and doors. When you get to switches and wall sockets, switch off the power and remove the electrical sockets. Make clean cuts while the wallpaper is damp before replacing the switches and sockets.
- Unfold the top half of the first wallpaper length and hang it slightly in place a few centimetres above the cornice where you intend to cut. Check that the lengths are vertical by using a pair of scissors suspended from a string,for example. If the wallpaper is crooked, lift it slightly. Do not twist.
- Then unfold the bottom half and apply it. Smooth out the length with a brush to remove any air bubbles. Work from the centre of the wallpaper out towards the edges and from the ceiling towards the floor.
- Cut cleanly against the skirting board and cornice. Replace the knife blade regularly, a blunt blade will tear the wallpaper. Glue that gets on the front can be quickly washed off with a sponge and clean water.
- Hang the next length with about a 2 mm overlap. The wallpaper shrinks a little as it dries, it may otherwise create gaps. Make sure you pattern-match correctly.
- At corners cut the length lengthwise. Glue and fold the pieces as usual. Allow the first length section to go 2 cm around the corner.
Hang the other length section overlapping all the way into the corner. Wipe off excess adhesive with a sponge.
Hang the second length about 2-3 cm in on the next wall to avoid tearing if you rub against against it (even it is does not pattern-match). Wipe off excess adhesive with a sponge.
- Allow to dry properly. Wallpaper dries best at normal room temperature.
Why does the wallpaper blister?
It is normal for wallpaper to blister after it has been hung. It usually takes about a day for the blisters to settle. If they remain after that time, there could be several reasons.
- Recommended drying time has not been followed.
- The adhesive has dried in patches.
- The surface of the wallpaper is very dense (a longer drying time is required).
- The underlying surface is slow absorbing, resulting in a longer drying time.
- The new adhesive dissolves the underlying wallpaper layer.
- The temperature in the room is too low for the adhesive to dry properly, or the wall may be too cold and damp.
Why are the joints slipping apart?
Either because the wrong adhesive has been used or someone may have tried to pull the wallpaper into place.
Why do the wallpaper joints lift?
Probably because too little adhesive was used. The wallpaper joint dried before the wallpaper was hung.
Wallpapering with borders
Some of Duro's more traditional collections contain a number of borders, mainly to maintain the contemporary feel of the home. It is recommended that two people hang a border, it makes the work much easier.
- Measure and mark with a pencil where the border should sit. Cut the lengths and add any pattern-matches.
- If the border is to be hung on a freshly painted wall, wait 14 days after the wall has been painted before applying the border.
- Apply the adhesive with a brush or a narrow roller. Fold the border like an accordion and let it unfold as instructed on the label.
- Secure the first border in a corner with a few centimetres overlap on the next wall. Apply securely using wallpaper tools.
- Place the next border strip exactly at the corner angle. When pattern-matching, check the pattern carefully.
- Paper borders applied to paper wallpaper should be use the same adhesive as the wallpaper.
- Borders applied to vinyl wallpaper or painted surfaces must use wet room or overlap adhesive.
What is the fire rating of Duro wallpapers?
All of Duro's wallpapers are fire tested and rated according to the current European standard, EN 13501-1:2002. The results show that all wallpapers possess properties that give them the best possible rating for combustible materials, which wallpapers are.
This means that Duro’s non-woven wallpapers may be used in escape routes, public meeting rooms etc. on surfaces with a minimum rating of A2-s1, d0 (plaster).